Choosing a lantern for night fishing. Light in the hole or artificial illumination of the bait during winter fishing at night at a depth Which lantern to buy for beaming fish

Which lantern to choose for night fishing?

There are hundreds of options, thousands of opinions, millions of results.

The correct answer is none. Night fishing uses natural light - light reflected from the moon, followed by its reflection from the water. And if there is no moon, we turn on all our senses, activates the hidden reserves of the human body.

Well, if you don't know how, then you still have to choose a lantern.

To say that a flashlight should have a number of characteristics for protection from dirt, dust, water, that it should be comfortable and blah blah we will not.

How a fish perceives objects

As the fish sees

For the most part, fish see well only at a close distance - from 1 to 1.5 m, beyond 10-12 m they cannot see anything at all. To detect light, fish have rod-shaped and cone-shaped visual cells on the retina. In daytime fish, cones predominate, they are less sensitive to light, but they can distinguish color. Nocturnal fish are dominated by rods that function in low light. Moreover, the difference in the number of rods and cones in daytime and nocturnal fish can be very significant ~ 20 times.

In the light, the state of the retina changes: the cones move towards the light, at dusk the rods move towards the light.

All that the fish sees is the light reflected from the object, i.e. a flat image is formed on the retina of the fish eye, which is perceived and recognized by the visual area of ​​the brain.

Thus, the fish is quite able to recognize objects both under water and on the surface of the water and outside the water.

Everything else - the angle of vision, the side eye and even the blind spot are no longer interesting and it makes no sense to consider them.

Perception of objects

The fish sees light reflected from objects, forming a flat image - this is how it perceives objects. Accordingly, the more intense the light reflected from the object, and taking into account yellow-orange cornea of ​​the eye, increasing the contrast of objects, the easier it is for the fish to distinguish it from the general background. The main feature of any fish is the instant fixation of any movement - moving objects, much smallerregarding its size, in the water column - are perceived as food, objects larger than itself cause a protective reaction.

Thus, any movement, exactly, a change in the nature of the illumination, is a signal for any fish to action - to defend itself, huddling in a flock, or to attack, freeze, remaining motionless, until it is ready to dash.

All of the above facts were observed by many fishermen in real conditions and on real examples:

- catfish is passive during the day, but active at night, while the carp eats with great pleasure in the daytime

- when approaching a school of gobies by land, an instant reaction is almost always observed, and the fish leaves in the other direction, relative to your movement

- the pike, until the moment of the throw, stands motionless in the thickets of grass, completely merging with it

Perception of color

It has been proven that fish are able to distinguish color or even its shades.

And then an endlessly long dispute arises about what color scares the fish?

The light flux directed into the water creates a huge moving object in the water column, which scares the fish. Therefore, whatever flashlight or whatever lens we use to illuminate the float, rod or ourselves, the fish will react in the same way - to defend.

How to be?

In fact, one of the above statements is not true! It is more accurate to consider and torment the issue of choosing a color and its perception by a fish, it is necessary from a completely different side.

Fish on a drum for color! The fish is attracted or scared off primarily by the size of the object. I repeat once again - the fish sees a flat image of an object formed by reflected light.

So back to the beginning - we turn on all our senses, activate the hidden reserves of the human body, and see in the dark.

Can't you? Then let's turn to physics.

Spectrum of light rays in nm (nanometers)

Penetration of light into water, depending on the wavelength

Taking into account the various parametric indicators of water, at the output we get a simple and understandable answer.

The best solution for illuminating essential items when fishing at night is to use lanterns with a red lens and a reduced luminous flux.

It is red light, it is the use of all lenses available on the market today that convert white or yellow, etc. color in red is the best solution that can minimize the risk of the fish recognizing an object that can be interpreted by it as a threat.

By the way, the play of light and color, in terms of reflection / absorption of light by objects in the water column, depending on the characteristics of the water itself, the intensity of the light flux and its refraction, are just as important indicators when choosing the color of bait and tackle, which is proved not only the above brief theoretical part, but also confirmed by many anglers who have carried out practical research on this topic.

An excellent option for a flashlight for night fishing - Fenix ​​HP-40H

Fenix ​​HP-40H is a headlamp from a Chinese manufacturer, Fenix, which radically changes the perception of the overwhelming majority of ordinary people about Chinese products as a low-quality semi-basement product.

Fenix, today, is one of the leaders in the Chinese market for the production of high-quality and technically modern flashlights for various purposes, presented in a wide range (all the details can be found on the website of the company's representative in the corresponding section).

Specifications Fenix ​​HP-40H

Flashlight Fenix ​​HP-40H review

Equipment:

- Flashlight

- External battery pack

- Batteries - 4 pcs.

- Head attachment system (transverse and longitudinal elastic straps)

- Power cable retainer - 2 pcs

- Warranty card

- User's Manual

Warranty: The Fenix ​​HP40H comes with an official manufacturer's warranty for 5 years from the date of purchase.

We open the packaging

Integrated open fittings are used to attach the head straps to the battery pack and flashlight

All straps are easily adjusted to the size of the head, by means of double-slot buckles, well fixing the strap in the desired position

Battery pack and flashlight are connected by thick, weather-resistant insulated cable

For convenience, the cable is attached to the strap through special clips

(the clips have the ability to walk freely along the strap if the flashlight is not attached to the head)

The battery pack is presented as a separate box, ~ 75x68x23mm in size, IPX6 standard (Protection against sea waves or strong water jets. Water entering the case should not interfere with the operation of the device)

IPX6 - Large splashes and rain - During testing, the object is exposed to water from all angles, protruding through 12.5 mm. nozzles in a volume of 100 liters / minute at a pressure of 100 kN / square meter from a distance of 3 meters. The device should not: stop working; have weak water penetration.

The inner part of the block enters through grooves into the outer casing and is rigidly connected by pulling through a metal threaded connection. At the junction of the two parts, the use of waterproof gaskets is not critical, since the outer part-cover of the indoor unit is made of a porous conditionally "soft" polymer, which by itself well closes "possible" cracks.

External battery pack

The battery pack is divided into two parts - the outer case, made of aluminum and high-strength plastic, and the inner one, for installing batteries - 4pcs AA

From the manufacturer's website fenix-russia.ru

Flashlight Fenix ​​HP40H is equipped with 2 LEDs: red Cree XP-E2 with brightness up to 150 lumens and white Cree XP-G2 (R5) with brightness up to 450 lumens. Both semiconductor devices are highly durable and can operate for 50,000 hours. Despite the fact that the red light is less bright, its beam is better focused, which allows illuminating an area with a radius of 105 m.White LED, on the other hand, gives a wide side illumination, creating a comfortable environment for tourists forced to walk in the dark along forest paths, as well as cavers, cyclists and other potential users of this lighting device.

Each of the diodes is controlled separately. Red can work in 3 brightness modes and is used in situations where it is important to preserve human night vision or not to frighten animals. The data on the operating time of the flashlight are given taking into account its testing, first with alkaline batteries, and then with Ni-MH batteries.

The white light diode works in 4 brightness modes as well as SOS signaling mode. Data on its work are also presented taking into account information on testing different types of batteries.

The direction of the light flux in the Fenix ​​HP40H is easily adjustable due to the swivel mechanism in the head of the lighting device. It can be rotated 60 ° vertically.

The battery pack for the Fenix ​​HP40H is external. To distribute the weight of the device more evenly on the head, it can be attached to the elastic straps from the back of the head. The battery compartment, like the head part of the flashlight, is well protected from moisture and can withstand the effects of any atmospheric precipitation. The Fenix ​​HP40H case is made of aluminum and high-strength plastic.

From the manufacturer's website fenix-russia.ru

The flashlight is controlled by means of 2 separate buttons on the upper surface of the head of the device. Pressing each of them for 0.5 s allows you to turn on / off the white or red LEDs, respectively. Short presses sequentially switch the brightness levels available for each diode. In addition, holding down the button that controls the white diode for 3 s activates the SOS signaling mode.

The body of the flashlight has, similar to the battery pack, IPX6 protection and is made of aluminum alloy with durable plastic elements.

The system of protection against accidental activation of the flashlight during transportation is made by partially overlapping both power buttons.

Head tilt up to 60 °

Total

The lantern makes pleasant first impressions, both in performance and in functionality and technological equipment and ease of use.

Going on a fishing trip, a person thinks about making it convenient for him to spend his time and not occupy his hands with additional things. therefore the most practical headlamps are, where the beam of light will always be directed to a certain point, which is necessary for the angler during his rest.

Which flashlight to choose for fishing?

Today everyone will be able to buy what they want - there would be money. The market has a huge selection of night fishing flashlights that run on both batteries and rechargeable batteries.

The main characteristics of such lights are:

1. Brightness. The long-distance lighting element will be important here. For example, if the weather is not good during fishing, you will need a lot of flashlight power. In this case, the choice can be made on the brightest lantern among the others lying on the counter. Depending on the weather conditions, these lights are equipped with red and white LEDs, which can be easily adjusted as the natural conditions change.
2. Lighting. The bottom line is that you can choose a flashlight with diffused lighting so that you can see well up close, and with distant lighting, where the light will be directed into the distance towards a specific object.
3. Energy resource. If you take a flashlight with two LEDs, then the red will consume less energy, but also illuminate a short distance. White LED consumes significantly more energy, but gives a clear picture of the area.
4. Ease of use. The headlamp has a special elastic band that is attached to the head and does not slide off. Its weight is practical and does not put pressure on the head.
5. Waterproof. Night fishing lanterns have many degrees of protection, so each of them needs to be carefully looked at. Some come into contact with rain easily, while others fail quickly. Also, the flashlights can be protected from dust and dirt and are well suited for submersion in water.
6. Impact resistance. Cheap headlamps are made of plastic and can be damaged by any contact with the asphalt. High quality, of course, is the flashlight from the aluminum body, but it will not be cheap. You always have to pay for quality.

Where can you buy fishing lanterns?

Due to the large selection of different hand and headlamps, it is difficult for the common man to make the right choice. You can buy them both in online stores and in any stores with hunting and fishing equipment.

Some of the famous brands of fishing lights are:

1. Led Lenser. Has gold plated contacts that are not subject to corrosion. The maximum beam length is 260 meters, it works for more than two days.
2. Zebralight. Highly waterproof. Light output up to 1000 lumens.
3. Boruit. Works in stroboscope mode. The distance of the light beam reaches up to 1 km. However, the operating time is minimal - only 8-9 hours.
4. Fenix. Made of stainless steel. Maximum light output 900 lumens.

Battery or batteries?

Anyone who intends to use the flashlight on a daily basis should definitely choose a rechargeable charger. More experienced anglers even use two batteries at once: one is used in the flashlight, and the other is taken in case of fire if the first fails.

Batteries will take a significant amount of money, unlike a battery, which will not be difficult to charge at home from an outlet, and its energy will last for a long time.

In any case, everything will depend on the owner of the lantern, who will use it for their own purposes.

Moisture protection and durability

When choosing a flashlight, any angler or ordinary user should pay attention to two important indicators:

• waterproofness;
• impact resistance.

When fishing, unforeseen circumstances can arise, and choosing a good flashlight can play an important role on your vacation. Regardless of the climate and weather, the lighting device should work effectively both in rain and in case of impacts on the ground.

Paying attention to the mixed degree of protection of the headlamps, you can choose the one suitable for fishing in unpredictable conditions. It will protect against splash, rain, dust and dirt.

In case of accidental blows, the lantern can break, and then you have to wait for dawn to see something on a night fishing trip. It is not difficult to find a flashlight with the maximum degree of protection. Having calculated the approximate parameters of the height from which the flashlight can fall and the impact energy, you can calculate its impact resistance.

Those who are not strong in these calculations can always consult with the seller of a shop with fishing equipment.

Compactness of flashlights

For a thing to be compact, it must weigh little. The best, of course, is a headlamp, since the hands remain free, and on the head it is not at all a hindrance. By fixing it on your forehead in a vertical or horizontal position, you can do your usual things.

Among the compact headlamps are the following:

• "Led Lenser H6R"... The principle of operation of such a flashlight lies in its main modes:
  • high beam;
  • diffused light.

It has a power regulator that allows you to smoothly change the direction of the light. Maximum light output 350 lumens.

• "Era"... Possesses high impact resistance. Regardless of the low cost of the flashlight, its quality does not suffer.
• "Bright beam"... It is used in any extreme conditions, and its affordable price and high-quality assembly make it a leader in the domestic market.

Lighting modes

For fishing, many brightness modes are not required so that finding the right button does not make rest difficult.

There are three main lighting options:

1. Energy saving.
2. Maximum.
3. Signal.

A flashlight with a light mode of at least 150 lumens is best suited for night fishing.

Professional anglers know two main categories of flashlights:

• with a red LED, which provides a comfortable perception of light at a short distance;
• with a blue LED that will not frighten the fish, but tiringly affects the human vision.

To figure out which flashlight brightness is best for fishing, you need to know What categories are the headlamps divided into:

Of course, it is best to opt for a flashlight with an illumination level of more than 150 lumens.

The headlamps have the following lighting modes:

• flooding to see your parking lot in diffused light;
• narrow-focus to focus on distant objects.

The more illumination in lumens, the further you can see in the distance. Every angler with a properly selected flashlight will be able to fish for his own pleasure and not scare away the fish with the brightness of the flashlight. And to select the desired bait, the low-light mode will do for closer objects.

Types of flashlights for fishing

Flashlights are divided into two types:

1. manual, thanks to which you can direct a beam of light to any point;
2. forehead- allow you to free your hands, but reduce the ability to control the light flux. However, they are the most popular on the market for those who go on vacation or travel.

Based on the technical characteristics of the two types of lanterns and paying attention to its lighting, energy resource, water resistance, compactness and durability, you can opt for the following brands of lighting gadgets:

1. Fenix ​​HP25... It has a high power and illuminates an area up to 150 meters. It has a double lighting system, is ergonomic and reliable.
2. Boruit RJ 3000... A versatile, waterproof flashlight made of aircraft grade aluminum that can last a very long time.
3. Armytek wizard famous among anglers all over the world. The weight of such a headlamp is small, and the additional strap does not allow the gadget to slide over the owner's eyes. Has several lighting modes, including SOS mode.
4. Acebeam H10... Its brightness reaches almost 2000 lumens and is adjustable with a rotating ring. It costs a little more than the rest of the lanterns.
5. Armytek Predator Pro... The hand-held torch model has an LED and a reflector. Thanks to this design, it is possible to achieve high illumination without exceeding the brightness, which will quickly use up the flashlight's energy reserve. Used as a pocket flashlight.

There are many other types and brands of flashlights that are suitable not only for fishing, but also for sports, travel, repairs, etc. A person can choose a flashlight suitable for himself for a price that suits him. It should only be noted that any flashlight for night fishing has an average cost of 2,000 to 7,000 rubles.

Fishing head torch

The fisherman himself has the right to choose a suitable fishing trip, let it be summer or winter. However, he will always need a gadget for night fishing. Again, hands-free headlamps are very popular around the world.

To choose the right flashlight, you need to consider the following indicators:

• degree of comfort;
• moisture resistance;
• energy saving.

The criteria are:

1. power reserve, which will come in handy if fishing will last for several days;
2. convenience. Here it is important to fix the flashlight on the head, and so that it can be easily removed;
3. lighting level. In this case, a narrow beam is suitable for distant objects.

Among the technical and operational qualities of headlamps, the following are distinguished:

• power supply carried out on batteries or accumulators;
• lighting brightness in multiple LED mode;
• operating modes.

Among the most popular headlamps, the following types can also be described:

• Fenix ​​HL55 XM-L2... Suitable for long-term fishing, which lasted for several days. Moisture resistant, has several brightness modes. Its weight is slightly more than 100 grams, and the cost is about 3000 rubles.
• Eagle Tac Sportac DH10LC2... It is multifunctional and is used in two forms at once:
  • manual;
  • forehead.

Its wide beam of light allows you to see up to 1 kilometer away. It runs on batteries, weighs less than 50 grams, and costs about 4500 rubles.

• Streamlight enduro camo... It is one of the budget headlamps. It is waterproof, has a 90-degree angle of rotation, is powered by batteries, and the lighting level is very low in accordance with the price of just over 1000 rubles.

In conclusion, every angler has a wide selection of the most popular hand and headlamps. Having figured out the main characteristics of these gadgets, you can find the most suitable and inexpensive flashlight for yourself, and then night fishing will be vivid and memorable.

An article on how to organize the highlighting of the bait in a simple way during night, winter fishing at a depth.

A lot of gadgets and underwater "bulbs" were offered. The essence of the method is to lure the fish. It is based on the natural "love" of the underwater inhabitant and his curiosity for the light source at the bottom and alluring under the darkness of the ice. The night bream, which is distinguished by both caution and curiosity at the same time, suffered especially from the underwater "flashlights".

The meaning of "highlighting" consists in lowering a burning light bulb to the bottom through the hole, which should lure the fish from afar to the feeding place and, accordingly, to the jig. Coming into the world, the same bream will inevitably bite.

The most, how to put it, optimal perhaps, we thought it was "adapted" from a light bulb or LED with a battery and a sealed test tube. Of course, this is true in those ancient times, when there was tension in the country with Chinese or just small lanterns.

We, in the absence of a test tube, and the reluctance to search for it, a little "shook hands" with a small LED flashlight, fortunately, China has put them on our market a lot and different. First, we achieve tightness. This is easy to do.

The easiest way is to wrap the flashlight in several layers of sausage film. Well, that, you know - thin plastic, in which sausage or cheese is packed in stores. It "sticks" well and does not let water in.

It is a little more difficult to siliconize the unscrewing parts with the appropriate sealant. Next, we tie the "light bulb" to the fishing line, make it heavier if necessary, and now the flashlight is ready to "plunge" into the hole. At a depth of up to 5m., If you bend over to the hole, you can even "steer" the light in the right direction, i.e. on the jig.

The only inconvenience for a subglacial angler is the presence of both a flashlight line and a rod line in the hole. Therefore, in order to avoid "snagging" when playing, we drill a couple of holes - in one we catch, in the other we "sink" a lantern. Cheap and simple. You can even drill three holes, of which two will be "working", and one will illuminate.

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO ASK ABOUT THE UNDERWATER VIDEO CAMERA, BUT DIDN'T KNOW FROM WHOM

WHAT IS IT ALL ABOUT?

Well, in a nutshell, this is a small lens on a cord and a monitor to which a video signal is fed from the lens through a cord. You see everything that happens underwater in real time, just like on TV.

How far is it visible?

It all depends on many factors. The most important is the transparency of the water. In addition, depth, illumination (whether the sun is shining) are important, whether there is a lot of snow on the ice. If the water is clear, the depth is not very large and it is light outside, then you can see everything quite far away. For example, in winter, at the Ruza reservoir at a depth of 4 meters, one could see into the camera what was at a distance of five meters from the camera. And it happens that the water is so cloudy that even at a depth of two meters you can see no further than half a meter from the camera.

And here another important question arises: what kind of lighting your camera is equipped with. The fact is that underwater cameras are usually equipped with illumination so that you can see the underwater world even at night or at great depths, where not much light enters. Thanks to this illumination, even at great depths, in complete darkness and in muddy water, you can see at least what is happening in your hole or under the boat.

DOES THE BACKLIGHT SCARE THE FISH?

This is an important question. The fact is that the backlight is different: infrared and LED. Infrared is practically invisible to the human eye, on the camera it is a small red diode. It does not scare away fish, and some fish such as perch, ruff, pike perch even attract. True, in low light and infrared illumination on, the picture on the screen will be black and white.

And the LED backlight is a flashlight that shines with white light. Of course, with such a flashlight you can see a little further than with infrared, and the picture will be colored, but such illumination does not attract fish.

The number of infrared LEDs also affects the illumination range, the more the better. But there are also disadvantages here. If there is a lot of suspended matter in the water, then under infrared illumination it glares a lot. It's like a high beam in snow.

CAN THE BACKLIGHT BE DISCONNECTED?

It all depends on the camera model. There are those where the camera is equipped with an LED, and if there is little light, the backlight turns on automatically. There are cameras where the backlight is always on. And there are those where the backlight can be turned on and off independently. In principle, this is, of course, an important factor, but only if there is a lot of suspended matter in the reservoir where you plan to use the camera. Then it will be seen much better without backlighting. In extreme cases, if the backlight does not turn off, the diodes can be covered with something. Ordinary plasticine, for example.

HOW TO UNDERSTAND WHICH SIDE THE CAMERA IS LOOKING IN?

This is really a problem. I put the camera under the water, you see a fish on the screen, but - where is it? Which side from you? If under water there are no obvious landmarks that are visible on the surface, it is not so easy to understand where the fish really is. We have to drill, for example, one or two more holes.

Again, it all depends on the camera model. There are devices that have a recording function, but they, of course, are much more expensive. It's up to you to decide if you need this function. Of course, it is interesting to show your friends what you saw there under the water, and to be surprised yourself again, but this is already a question of your financial capabilities.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE CAMERA ON FROST?

Of course. Manufacturers, as a rule, guarantee the operation of the camera at temperatures up to minus ten degrees, but I used it even at minus thirty. I just keep it in my inner pocket. I need to see what's in the hole, - took out the device, lowered the camera into the hole. He looked - he wound the cable and put the device back into a warm pocket. But if you want to catch and watch how the fish swims up to your bait, and it is minus twenty-five on the street, then of course, the device will not last long. The monitor is liquid crystal, and they do not work for a long time in severe frost. They don't break at all, of course, they just freeze.

REALLY CAN CATCH

AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS UNDER THE WATER?

Why not? I lowered the camera to the bottom, put the monitor in front of me and watch the fish attack your bait. It's funny, of course, although the most interesting moment of fishing - the factor of surprise - is lost. You can see what kind of fish you will bite and what size. But from the point of view of understanding the process, it is very useful to observe.

For more than three years of heavy use of the camera, what I have not seen in it! And huge shoals of bream with pike perch, and carp trying to eat this very chamber, and shoals of roach, ignoring my bait, and pike attacks, and handsome grayling, and an accumulation of trout, huddled in a heap in the corner of the reservoir. You can't remember everything. I am now without a camera, as if without hands. You already feel somehow wrong on the pond.

CAN I USE IT IN SUMMER?

It is possible, although it is not as convenient as from the ice in winter. If from the shore, then I simply tie the camera to the fishing rod and lower it into the water on the cord. Sometimes it’s also interesting to see what’s going on under you from the boat. I got attached, for example, to a snag and you catch a pike perch. Then, for the sake of interest, you lower the camera under the boat, and there is a huge school of carp.

How deep the camera can be lowered depends on the model. Manufacturers can equip the same camera with different lengths of cords. As a rule, it is 10-15-20 meters. For most of our reservoirs, ten would be enough, but 15 meters is still optimal. By the way, the longer the cord, the more expensive the camera itself.

WHERE ARE THEY PRODUCED AND DO THEY FREQUENTLY BREAK?

All electronics are made now, as a rule, in China, and all underwater cameras on our market are no exception. But the development was originally American. Of course, like any electronics, the camera can break, but I still have my very first camera, which I bought more than three years ago. From the experience of others, I know that sometimes either the camera itself fails, or the cord from twisting or creasing stops contacting. Manufacturers are aware of this problem, and lately many cameras' cords have gotten thicker and stronger. But again, there are no complaints about some models at all, and some, to put it mildly, are not praised at all.

But it is a fact that underwater cameras, as they say, have become popular and can often be seen among fishermen in various reservoirs.

One thing I can say for sure: fishing with a camera has become much more interesting for me personally. True, now I more often admire the underwater world than fish, but this does not bother me much.

11/07/2016

Fishing at night during the hot summer months is most productive. At the same time, the primary issue of such fishing, requiring a solution, is the provision of illumination of the workplace and bite signaling devices.

The topic raised to the uninitiated may seem secondary. Like, he bought a headlamp, put on a "firefly" and catch it. But it is worth, with this approach, to be on a fishing trip, if not problems, then serious difficulties arise. Moreover, those that will not only spoil the impressions of the fishing process, but also directly affect its performance.

Even while mastering night float and feeder fishing under the guidance of experienced mentors, at one time I had to break a lot of spears before I figured out the issue of organizing lighting and, more importantly, to develop my own vision of the optimality of this most important component of night fishing.

In general, without pretending to be the ultimate truth, I will share my personal experience in solving the lighting problem, focusing on each of the two types of fishing mentioned - float and feeder.

Work area lighting

Of course, the main task at night is to ensure the visibility of the bite alarms, which when fishing with a fishing rod is a float, and a feeder is a quivertip. However, it is equally important to provide illumination of the workplace for baiting baits on the hook, feeding, casting equipment, playing fish and in a number of other cases, including household issues.

In general, preparation for night fishing should begin well before dusk. Having prepared the bait, I correctly expose the supports for the rod so that there are no problems at night. This is especially true on wooden walkways, where a simple rack cannot be placed. For such cases, I will take a tripod stand Salmo Tripod 707-405 in advance.

I securely fix the chair, placing everything you need on the work table and excluding everything unnecessary. I do not forget to lay out the cage, which in the summer I always take a roomy one, such as the Sensas CARP "X POWER KEEPNET, otherwise the fish will disappear from the heat by morning. I aim the casting point. By nightfall, it should not just be fed. Fishing should be in full swing and the transition from one time of day to the second should be smooth, only lighting should change from natural to artificial.

LED headlamps with rubber bands are really a good choice for illuminating the work area today. In addition, you can resort to their counterparts mounted in the visors of fishing caps. However, the first option seems to be more preferable, because it allows you to adjust the angle of rotation of the flashlight vertically and, accordingly, the direction of the light beam. As a result, it focuses on the desired point and is not very scattered over the unwanted area. When fishing at close range such cautious fish as bream or tench, which sometimes comes to the very shore, this is important. Any unnatural change in the environment can scare them away. So it is better when the light of the switched on flashlight is directed under the feet of the angler.

The shape - a circle, oval or rectangle, as well as the size of the lantern, the number of LEDs and spotlights, brightness levels, protection from water, from my point of view, are secondary characteristics. Much more important is the color of the light beam emitted by the flashlight. It comes in blue, yellow and white. The first option is the most advantageous, since it is the brightest and does not tire the eyes so much.

The glass of the lantern's spotlight is also noteworthy. If it is spherical, the light will be diffused. As a result, not only the desired point is illuminated, but also the unwanted surrounding space. Lanterns with flat glass appeal more. Their light beam is more concentrated, concentrated, and bright.

I recommend turning on the headlamp only for a short time to perform a specific task, and in the mode of the minimum brightness level. I do not share the opinion that artificial light does not deter fish. When the night is light, and the rig is cast at a considerable distance from the shore using a feeder, turning on the flashlight for a long time is not yet critical. If the night is impenetrable, a flash of light, and even when fishing with a short rod with a float in the coastal zone, can lead to undesirable consequences. Yes, the same bream is not afraid of the lunar path, but the light of the moon is a natural phenomenon, in contrast to the light of a lantern, which is emitted in a completely different way. Therefore, fish can leave even a lured place.

It is better to make it a rule to turn on the headlamp only for attaching baits to the hook or stuffing the feeder. All other cases are considered an exception. Even casts, including feeder casts, should be done in the dark. To do this, it is necessary to determine in advance, before dusk, a reference point for casting, which will be noticeable at night. Position the fishing chair so that this landmark is on the line of the eyes. And the fishing sector is more rational to choose a low complexity in order to minimize the hooks of the rig to emerging plants, coastal trees, etc. Plus, the fishing distance should not be maximized. Under the canopy of the starry sky, it is extremely difficult to perform power verified castings of the rig at the limit of possibilities.

The process of playing fish turns out to be difficult at night. Especially when fishing with a float rod with delicate rigs surrounded by aquatic vegetation. On the one hand, artificial light is able to facilitate this task, on the other - to complicate it. The latter is again connected with the unpredictable reaction of fish, which, falling into the epicenter of the light spot, can double the resistance. Therefore, if you can do without light, it is better not to turn it on. As a rule, playing small fish does not cause much trouble. It is more difficult with large individuals. When my partner catches next to me, I always resort to his help in such cases. One plays out, the second substitutes the landing net without turning on the light. The flashlight is used only as a last resort. And again, the light beam should not be directed at the water, but under one's own feet or to the side.

Float rig lighting

The main, and irreplaceable element of float lighting is the so-called "light stick". It is a plastic capsule with a fluorescent dye and oxalate (an ester of oxalic acid), when it breaks, the inside glass cone with hydrogen peroxide bursts. When two substances are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs with the effect of light radiation.

Depending on the type of colorant in the capsule, this nozzle is available in several colors - green, blue, yellow and red. I haven’t met any other, but in principle they should not be. The most preferable ones are green fireflies. They are the brightest, do not tire the eyes, and besides, they additionally emphasize the aesthetics of night fishing, bathing emerging plants in the reflections of the emerald light emitted. The green ones are followed by yellow capsules, which are also not bad. The red light of "fireflies" is aggressive and exhausting, but the most useless is blue. He seems to be drowning in water, shimmering dully. The color is always indicated on the packaging of branded capsules.

I have not seen "capsules" that would create problems in terms of the duration of the glow. Others generally burn for a couple of days, although manufacturers usually define this period as 12-15 hours. Is that the brightness of the glow becomes an order of magnitude lower. Therefore, in this regard, you should not be puzzled - for one night, especially a summer one, anyone will be enough. Just do not forget that the already glowing capsule should be shaken from time to time. When it is mounted on a float, the light-emitting substance rolls down and the firefly dies out. I shake the capsule with a few clicks of two fingers. Fast and efficient.

It is worth paying attention to the adapter for attaching the "firefly" to the float antenna. Usually this is a piece of a transparent polymer tube. For unverified manufacturers, it is too short, and the capsule may fly off when cast. Therefore, it is good to have a supply of your own tubes of various diameters.

On floats with removable antennas, and these Salmo are produced, it is possible to install "fireflies" in the nest of the "body". In this case, you should not miss the diameter of the purchased capsules, which is indicated on the packaging. However, I made sure that the weight of the capsule is not always equal to the weight of the detachable antenna, so the weight of the float may change. When the float rises above the surface, this is not only critical, but even good, because the visibility of the bite alarm is improved. If the capsule is heavier than the standard antenna and sinks the float, barely visible above the water, the load should be reduced. In such a case, I just remove one shot from the line. Well, do not forget that the thinner the antenna of the float, the thinner the "firefly" will be. Accordingly, its visibility will become worse. Therefore, I consider the most optimal capsules to be those that have the characteristics of 4.5x39 m / m, 4x38 m / m. I select floats for night fishing for them.

Keep "fireflies" at home not in a bag or box, but on the refrigerator door, so that they do not lose their working properties. And lastly, when feeding fish at night when fishing with a float, it is better to do without turning on the headlamp aimed at the fishing sector, relying on the capsule-"beacon" of the abandoned float, residual natural lighting and your own skills in casting pre-prepared balls.

Feeder rig lighting

Despite the fact that the "firefly" capsules described in the previous section are intended not only for night float fishing, but also for feeder fishing, they abandoned their use in bottom fishing for a long time. Firstly, the special plastic fasteners included in the capsule kit do not always snap tightly on the top of the feeder and scroll. But even if you put several turns of the same adhesive tape under it or solve the problem by fixing it between the second and third, or third and fourth rings, the fasteners create inconveniences in the fishing process. A braid or fishing line is overlapped about it, the likelihood of a quivertip breaking increases. Secondly, the control of the bite by observing the "firefly" at the tip is not effective, especially when fishing on the lake, when the feeder is parallel to the horizon line. Against the background of increasing eye strain in the dark, the luminous capsule begins to "float". The illusion of a bite is created.

Some people solve the problem by installing a specially made white screen in front of the tip, in contrast with which the deflection of the tip when biting is better visible. Even so, backlighting is required, so I like my own way out. To the left or to the right of the feeder top, at a distance of one to two dozen centimeters from it, I install a rechargeable flashlight. Moreover, at such an angle that the beam of light emitted by it is directed upward, and not at the water. I mount the flashlight on a telescopic fishing rod support using ordinary electrical tape. The visibility of even a timid bite with this option is ideal, and, given the casting distance, such an additional source of diffused illumination does not negatively affect the behavior of the fish. Charging a good rechargeable flashlight is enough not even for one, but for several nights. My friend, who does the same, uses a rechargeable battery instead of a flashlight, with a wire and a lamp coming from it.

With this option, it is also convenient to play the fish, not including the headlamp, which is necessary only for working with baits and complementary foods, and sometimes for casting, if the point serving as a reference point on the opposite bank is invisible in the impenetrable darkness.

The widespread opinion that at night when fishing with a feeder, you can do without continuous lighting, making a bet on a bell or bell, fixed on the rod stand, is erroneous. Sometimes on summer nights, the vast majority of bites are hardly noticeable. The rod tip only slightly deviates from the initial position, without causing the alarm to ring. Therefore, it is easy to miss the moment of hooking. I use the bell only as a safety detector in case I have to be distracted from the continuous monitoring of the quivertip. For many years of night fishing, I made sure that you should not relax at night, because the fish can start active feeding at two or three o'clock. So it's best not to close your eyes.

Well, in conclusion, about a simple rule. When fishing at night, the feeder should be handled carefully when filling the trough and baiting the hook. The braid or line should always be taut to avoid snagging the tip. When the preparation for casting is completed, you should check their free play and only then perform the cast to avoid damage to the quivertip. Such or any other mistake made at night turns into much greater losses of time and nerves than during the day.

Sergey Shershenevich