Despite the fact that facing brick walls is one of the most expensive and time-consuming, it is still in demand for private homes. A brick house has always been a sign of respectability and solidity, and the cladding allows you to achieve complete identity when using other materials for the facade.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of brick cladding include not only externally attractive properties. Facing plays the role of protecting the main material of the wall from the effects of destructive climatic factors.
If we compare the facing brick with facade plaster, then it has a much higher mechanical resistance.
Compared to vinyl siding or painted professional sheet (as part of ventilated facades), any type of brick better withstands the effects of solar ultraviolet radiation. And the facade cladding with stone tiles or porcelain stoneware can be destroyed due to poor adhesion of the walls and mortar.
Finishing with facing bricks allows for simultaneous insulation of the facade. Of course, the thermal insulation properties of dense materials are low, but the use of hollow bricks and a layer of insulation make it possible to achieve a high level of energy saving when heating in winter and air conditioning in summer.
The disadvantages, in addition to the cost and complexity of the work, include a high load on the foundation, which must be taken into account when designing or reconstructing a house.
Features of wall cladding from different materials
Facing masonry passes in half a brick. The self-supporting ability of such a false wall is low. It must be literally tied to the facade. To do this, use different materials: ready-made flexible ties, anchors, nails, strips of sheet metal, masonry mesh.
The way of the bundle, the need for insulation, the presence of a ventilated gap and vents depend on many properties of the facade material: strength, vapor permeability, retention force of fixtures, dimensions of building blocks, etc.
Brick
In this case, everything is relatively simple. Both the wall and the facing have almost the same parameters, including the size of the brick. The most common mounting method is ready-made flexible connections made of metal or fiberglass. A flexible connection is a rod having seals at the ends in the form of “powder” from quartz sand (to improve adhesion). Such a rod is fastened at one end in a horizontal mounting seam of the wall, and the other in the cladding. If the seams do not match, then in the facing masonry the core is placed in a vertical seam. Such cladding usually takes place simultaneously with insulation. For a newly built brick house, this reduces the thickness of the external walls and the total load on the foundation.
If polystyrene foam is used as a heater, then the ventilation gap is not needed. When using mineral wool, there is a need for weathering water vapor from it. Therefore, from the side of the facing layer, a washer with a clamp is put on a flexible connection, which presses the insulation mat against the wall of the house and leaves a ventilated gap between it and the cladding. That is, the flexible connection also acts as a fastener for the insulation (do not use umbrella dowels, as in hinged facades).
The number of connections per 1 square. m walls - 4 pcs. (in the openings - along the perimeter after 30 cm), the minimum penetration into the seam is 90 mm, the maximum - 150 mm.
Slag stone or monolithic houses made of slag concrete
Cinder block refers to lightweight concrete. Depending on the voidness, the material can act in different qualities, including as heat-insulating. Its main disadvantages are unattractive appearance, low resistance to precipitation and wind loads. Therefore, insulation of the house from cinder block is usually not required, but lining is required. The best material for this is considered a brick with low water absorption (for example, clinker or manual molding).
The vapor permeability of the brick is lower than that of the cinder block. As a result, the dew point in cold weather can “fall” onto the cinder block, and water vapor through the lining will not be able to weather. So that the main wall does not damp and does not collapse, you need a ventilation gap and vents at the bottom of the cladding (at the basement) and at the top (under the roof).
As a flexible connection, a masonry net is used, one edge of which is fixed to the wall with a bracket and dowel, and the second (in the masonry seam of the cladding) should not go outside. The grid is laid in every fifth row of brickwork.
Aerated concrete building blocks
Despite the differences in the manufacturing technology of aerated concrete and foam concrete, the bearing and thermal insulation properties are similar, there are only differences in vapor permeability (aerated concrete is higher). The lining for cellular concrete blocks is mandatory - the reasons are, in principle, the same as those of the cinder block.
As for the cinder block, insulation is not necessary, but a ventilation gap is needed. Therefore, the method of fixing the masonry to the wall is similar.
Wooden houses
This is perhaps the rarest case of brick cladding.
Felling a log from a log with brick is practically impossible because of the characteristic corner cuts of the crowns. In timber houses there is no such problem, but the feasibility of facing is very doubtful - the acquired advantages are much less than the disadvantages.
Frame (or frame-panel) wooden houses are attractive due to the lack of "wet" work, the speed of construction and relatively low cost. Brick cladding is possible and practiced, but eliminates these advantages.
In any case, warming when facing a wooden house with a brick, in principle, is not necessary, and a gap is necessary - the lack of ventilation and weathering of excess moisture will lead to rotting of the tree. In addition, it is mandatory to treat the walls with antiseptics.
If the insulation is carried out, then it is carried out using mats of mineral wool having high vapor permeability. The insulation is installed on the crate, using the technology of ventilated facades - with laying on top of the windproof vapor permeable membrane.
When warming as a flexible connection, not a masonry net is used, but pieces of wire attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws (at the rate of 4 pcs. Per 1 sq. M).
Preparatory phase for old houses
For old houses, it is necessary to strengthen the old one or equip a separate foundation that can hold additional brickwork.
1. Strengthening the strip foundation. A trench is dug around the perimeter just below the depths of the old foundation. A pillow of crushed stone and sand is poured to the bottom, formwork is put on the soil side, dirt is cleaned from the wall of the old foundation, primed with a bitumen primer, holes are drilled for steel rods to which the reinforcing cage is knitted. Concrete mixture is poured, not forgetting about the underground ducts or the basement windows.
2. The expansion of the slab foundation is carried out using the same technology as the strip foundation.
3. If the house stands on a pile or column foundation, then for cladding do the same.
Another feature of the cladding of old houses is the “poor” geometry of the walls. As a result of shrinkage and precipitation of the house, deviation of levels usually occurs. If shrinkage is more “evident” in wooden houses (especially from materials with natural humidity), then the draft depends on the type of soil and the weight of the structure. Therefore, when strengthening the foundation, this factor must be taken into account.
With the "horizon" everything is simple. And the "vertical" for new corners and walls must be counted from the point of maximum deviation of the old facade (taking into account the width of the masonry and the thickness of the insulation).
Types of facing bricks
Facing (or front) ceramic brick differs from ordinary ceramic in improved appearance, including a large selection of colors and textured surface. As a rule, this is a slotted (or hollow) brick, which has good thermal insulation properties.
Clinker hollow brick is initially considered to be front. It has high mechanical strength and very low water absorption.
Hand-molded bricks are chosen for retro style. High price and, as a rule, full-bodied format.
Hyperpressed brick has high decorative properties, but is available exclusively as a solid.
The last two types are used either for wall cladding with high thermal insulation properties (for example, warm ceramics or cellular concrete), or together with the installation of a layer of insulation.
Facing brick masonry
The standard brick laying algorithm is from the corners that are used as beacons, with periodic verification of compliance with the levels.
As a template for making a masonry seam of the same thickness, a calibrated square metal bar is used - this is one of the simplest methods.
If the cladding passes without insulation and ventilation, then the solution is applied not only to the brick, but also to the wall itself.
If a masonry net is used as a connection with the wall, then reinforcement is not done. In other cases, every fifth seam is reinforced with a grid or two bars laid in parallel.
Stitching is best done in the same plane with the wall surface, so that water does not collect in the seam, but flows down.
The use of colored masonry mortar makes the lining more attractive.
Typically, frame and wooden chopped houses are faced with brickwork equal to half or a quarter of the thickness of the brick. This can be done if the basement of the building has a ledge, on which the facing brickwork will rest. This ledge should be lower than the lower frame of the wooden wall frame, and in the case of a chopped wall - below the lower crown. This will prevent leakage under the lower piping of moisture, which will accumulate on the basement ledge.
Since wood and brick are dissimilar materials, they have different speeds and degrees of shrinkage. In addition to natural precipitation in the wooden wall, lengthy processes of changes in the moisture of the material and the associated phenomena of swelling or drying of the wood (increase and decrease in volume) occur.
It should be noted that in the case of frame houses, the swelling of wood does not cause significant changes, because with increasing humidity, the length of the wood fiber does not change. At the same time, the height of the walls of the chopped structure increases when the wood swells and decreases when it dries. Although these changes are small, they are present and most noticeable in houses where they do not live permanently (summer houses, for example).
In connection with the mentioned features of wooden chopped houses, their cladding can only begin after the completion of the process of shrinkage of the structure, which lasts for about two to three years. General shrinkage is usually about 5% of the initial height. Brickwork should be 1-5 cm below the protruding cornice. In this case, seasonal fluctuations in the height of the walls of the log house will not damage the roof cornice.
Brick lining of a wooden wall: a - frame insulated with the use of a wind-insulating plate; b - chopped without insulation
1 - ventilated air gap; 2 - mounting part; 3 - masonry 4 - wind-insulated insulated plate, for example, PAROC WAS-25, WAS-35; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - finish; 7 - frame; 8 - insulation; 9 - chopped wall
Frame walls of the house can be lined immediately after construction without taking into account seasonal changes in wood parameters, because frame racks having longitudinal fibers change their length very slightly under the influence of atmospheric humidity and temperature.
When constructing a facing wall between it and the foundation (or base), the main wall must leave space. The main wall must be glued with waterproofing material. The cladding is tied to the main wall using flexible ties, which can be made of steel or modern plastics, painted or galvanized. In order to avoid corrosion of metal elements and the appearance of indelible spots of rust on the surface of the cladding, it is recommended that staining of flexible bonds be mandatory.
Due to the flexibility of the bonding elements, seasonal changes in the materials of the main and facing masonry, their uneven settlement do not affect the rigidity of the structure. Brickwork on flexible connections, regardless of the "behavior" of the frame wall, maintains its position both horizontally and vertically, does not fall off and does not deform.
Brickwork is used for wall cladding not only in wood, but also in other materials. Even modern frame and monolithic houses made of concrete are faced with decorative brick, and the technology of cladding is no different from the cladding of wooden buildings.
a - Z-shaped anchor, laid during the laying of the main walls; b - L-shaped anchor installed in the "soft" walls; in - in solid walls; d - an example of the installation of Halfen rod anchors; d - the same company Jordahl; e - fastening system with HALFEN rod anchors; g - the same, with JORDAHL strip anchors; 1 - Z-shaped anchor; 2 - a teardrop; 3 - L-shaped anchor; 4 - dowel; 5 - self-tapping screw; 6 - screw anchor
As the connecting elements, you can use galvanized wire or an anchor system, preferring products of well-known manufacturers. Flexible communication elements are installed in places where paving bricks are laid (similar to laying a solid brick wall). In ordinary masonry, the outer facing verst is connected to the main wall using a brick laid with a poke. If the finished wall is revetted, then the brick-poke is replaced by a flexible connection.
In order not to disturb the drawing of a continuous facing row and give it a natural look, at the place of communication, instead of a bonded brick, use its half. It is recommended that a rubber or plastic ring (so-called teardrop) be put on the anchor of the bonding element.
This need is dictated by the following circumstance: over time, water vapor entering the air space between the main and facing walls will condense on the colder, metal surfaces of the anchors; further, flowing down the inclined anchor, it can moisten either the main or facing masonry. If a teardrop is fixed on the anchor, then moisture will flow along it and gradually evaporate. Drops of water that have torn from the teardrop will fall on the horizontal surface of the base and also evaporate or leak out through the ventilation ducts left in the masonry for ventilation.
Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region, the thickness of the walls and the material from which it is made, the thermal and humidity conditions of the building itself, the amount of condensed moisture can vary, from zero to significant values. Therefore, it is advisable to treat the lower parts of the main wall, the first rows of cladding and the open ends of the bricks framing the ventilation slots with a waterproofing composition.
Often the space between the facing and the main wall is filled with heat-insulating material (mineral wool, fiberglass, polyurethane or expanded polystyrene plates). In this case, two rings are fixed on the flexible connecting element (you can "fungus" with the ring). One ring will press the insulation plate against the wall, and the second will become a teardrop to collect moisture inside the gap.
It should be borne in mind that regardless of whether the multilayer wall is insulated or insulated, an air gap must necessarily remain between 20 and 80 mm wide. Since at present there are no exact methods for calculating the size of this gap between the walls, which would take into account all the features of various building and heat-insulating materials, climatic characteristics of the region and many other factors, experts advise making an air gap of 5 cm wide equal to the length of the box of matches.
To ensure the complete removal of constantly formed condensate from the air gap, it is necessary to make empty spaces in the first and last rows of the facing brickwork, that is, vertical joints must be left empty (do not fill them with mortar). Then air will be supported into the lower slots of the wall and its removal together with water vapor from the upper slots, that is, an almost constant vertical air flow is created.
When using mineral wool as a heat-insulating material, it is recommended to cover the facing wall on the inside with a vapor-permeable membrane, which will prevent the removal of small particles of the insulation through the cracks by air flows. When facing a chopped house using the “ventilated facade” technology without the use of heat-shielding materials, it is also recommended to cover the outer wall with a windproof membrane, which will prevent the walls of the building from cooling down with ventilation air flows.
In principle, the decision on the insulation of the walls of a building is made by the builder and landlord. In any case, it is necessary to provide an air duct between the cladding and the wooden wall of the building facade when erecting the facing wall. If a decision has been made to insulate the outer wall of the house, then this issue should be approached thoroughly, armed with accurate technological calculations.
No matter how good a wooden house is, its walls give in to wear and especially environmental influences much faster than, for example, brick ones, so at some point it may be necessary to brick the house.
We will make a reservation right away that this is a rather time-consuming work that will require us to be careful and strictly observe the main technological issues, but you can do it yourself.
Where to begin
- Brick. Facing, building brick, silicate - it all depends on our desire.
- The solution - and therefore, cement grade 200-250, sand - it is good if river.
- Fittings. It will be required for the foundation under the cladding. You can small section.
- Crushed stone of medium fraction is also for concrete preparation.
The calculation of the brick can be done on the basis that approximately 50 pieces of facing brick are required per square meter.
Advice! When buying a brick, which will be the final facade, it is necessary to purchase 10-15% more than is necessary for the calculations. In case of battle, for example.
Cement, sand and other material can be purchased as needed.
Foundation
The weight of the facing wall will be very significant, for example, 10 square meters of the wall can weigh a total of about 40 tons, so first fill the base.
We dig a trench around the perimeter of the whole house, lay the fittings and pour concrete.
Here we need:
- A few shovels, earthwork will have to be done independently.
- Pickaxe and crowbar. Near the house in the ground there is always a lot of construction waste.
- Concrete mixer, still concrete will interfere in the mechanical device.
- A pair of trowels.
- Level, hammer, hacksaw for wood. All for formwork.
We prepare a trench with a depth of 50 cm minimum, a width of 30-40 cm. Someone will say that this is too much, but we recommend that it is better to make a reinforced foundation than to risk all the work at the very beginning.
We lay reinforcement connected in the form of a rectangle in a trench and fill everything with liquid concrete.
On large volumes of concrete work, building vibrators are always used to exclude the formation of voids, but before we lay a brick on a wooden house, we will try to “vibrate” the concrete with simple sticks so that there are no air bubbles in the foundation.
Important! Such attention to the foundation makes sense, it is all the work that depends on the foundation, so we fill it in at a time, trying not to interrupt the process.
We leave the base to dry, and in a few days we can start laying, the concrete will harden, and in the future it will only continue to set.
Wall preparation
In principle, all the preparation comes down only to the fact that we treat wood with antiseptics, antifungal compounds and mildew products. Moreover, some experts believe that before facing, this must be done several times.
Before processing, we walk along the walls, remove and dismantle various protrusions, metal parts, remove dirt or moss deposits, in general, bring the walls to a certain cleanliness.
For additional insulation, you can insulate the walls with mineral wool, this material is completely safe, and most importantly it perfectly breathes, and is not subject to the spread of mold or fungus.
The first thing we need to know is that there must be at least 6-10 cm of distance between the masonry and the wall of the house. This is necessary for normal natural ventilation, which will prevent mold.
To work on masonry, we will need:
- Masters.
- Hammer.
- Building level.
- Plumb and weights.
- The rule.
- Scaffolding. If we have a two-story house, without them it will not be possible to conduct normal masonry
We prepare the cement mortar on the basis of the ratio of one to four, it is a fairly durable solution, and at the same time, thanks to the large amount of sand, it “breathes”.
The difficult part is how to properly brick a wooden house, there is no special one, the main thing is attentiveness and accuracy.
We put the first row of masonry on waterproofing, and we check each brick by levels and by vertical plumb. Any deviations should be eliminated immediately, because the fact that at the beginning of the masonry deviates by 10 mm, by the end it will lead the wall into a deviation by centimeters already!
Ventilation
Approximately on the second row of masonry, we leave a space not filled with mortar between the side joints of the brick, these will be our ventilation ducts. At the top, already under the roof itself, we also leave holes in the masonry, just cover them with a decorative strip.
Together with ventilation, we will need a drainage hole, which we will leave at the very bottom, on the first row of masonry, and moisture will come out through it, in case of condensation.
Jumper device
The wall of the house is rarely continuous, and in our case, when we completely cover the house, we always have windows and doors.
There is no difficulty in opening the device as such, the only thing is the jumper device, and there are four options:
- Concrete beam. Ready-made reinforced concrete lintel, the price of which is quite low, will allow us to instantly cover the opening and carry on the masonry further.
- Steel jumper. The corner is recessed into the masonry, and the brick is placed on its ribs.
- Own jumper. We'll have to tie the fittings, build the formwork and fill everything with concrete.
- A wedge is built of brick in the form of a semicircle. A very specific jumper, which requires great knowledge in construction.
Based on the complexity of some options, we dwell on a simple concrete and ready-made jumper, which we install on the solution, and continue to masonry.
Nuances of masonry
If the masonry is carried out immediately on the final version, let’s say so, you will have to carefully look at the appearance, immediately remove all residual mortar, gently grout the seams. Try to keep the seam in one thin line.
Again, recall that each row should be checked by level, as well as by a horizontal guide and a vertical plummet.
Many experts offer each brick before laying soak in water for greater adhesion, but here it all depends on the choice of material, and the mortar itself quite tightly binds the parts of the lining. For example, the same double silicate brick M 150 will dry out due to its physical properties.
Wall mount
Facing must be connected with the house. This can be achieved using metal mortgages, pins, plates, or even just nails.
If you look at how the fastening instructions suggest working, it turns out that we can simply drive, for example, a weaving nail into a wooden wall and drown part of the nail in masonry.
This option is possible and fastenings can be made every 50 - 70 cm. The main thing is that all metal parts that will be used as fasteners are treated with primer paint, which will prevent corrosion.
Almost tiled house
Conclusion
Brick lining of the house can significantly increase its durability and protect the wall material from destruction. It is used for buildings made of various materials, but it is wood cladding that causes the most questions: many home owners do not want to hide the beauty of wood with any cladding materials. In what cases do I need a brick lining of a log house, and how to properly perform it?
The main reasons for facing the house
This type of decoration is not so common, primarily because of the rather high cost, however, there are cases when it is brick that will become the optimal solution for the house. Brick lining of a wooden house can be used for several reasons:
- If the building was built from low-quality material: a bar of natural moisture quickly becomes worthless and needs additional protection. Cheap pine wood begins to darken over time, so it’s more profitable to hide it behind a beautiful cladding.
- If there is a need for additional insulation. The brick itself holds heat well, in addition, another layer of insulation is placed between the brick and log wall. The cost of bricking a log house will be lower than the annual heating costs with a low level of thermal insulation.
- Brick cladding is widely used for frame-type buildings. In any case, they need external decoration, and brick is the most durable and durable material.
One of the important advantages is a beautiful appearance. You can get a completely flat wall, using a brick of different colors will allow you to decorate the house with an original pattern. This material will never go out of fashion, and if the house is bricked, it takes on a solid and reliable look.
How is the facing
Covering a house with a facing brick is a rather complicated process, since it is necessary to combine two completely different materials in their characteristics. Brick has a lot of weight, so work must begin with strengthening the foundation.
For brick cladding, only a strip or slab foundation is suitable, so a house on stilts or on poles will require the construction of an additional shallow-deep strip foundation. This is a reinforced concrete strip, at least 30 cm deep in the ground, its width should be at least 20 cm.
It is much easier to carry out facing work in buildings with a concrete base. If it has a sufficient width, it will be possible to erect a brickwork and place a layer of insulation between the wall and the lining. How to brick a wooden house?
- Calculation and purchase of material. For facing, you can use both ordinary and special facing bricks. The second option has less strength, but it weighs less, and this will reduce the load on the foundation.
The modern facing brick looks beautiful, the house takes on an elegant and neat appearance. To create masonry, it is recommended to purchase a special mortar.
It is offered as a dry mix that can be quickly prepared for use. It is necessary to correctly calculate the required amount of brick and the required mortar.
- Before starting work, the brick must be put into water for a while. It has the ability to absorb moisture, and without pre-treatment, it will draw it out of solution, reducing its strength and ductility.
- The solution should be prepared strictly according to the instructions, and it is undesirable to experiment: attempts to save can lead to uneven masonry. The thickness of the standard solution layer should not be less than 10-12 mm. If the spray of the mortar in the process of creating the masonry gets on the brick, they must be removed immediately, otherwise they will harden, and it will be difficult to clean them.
- An important requirement: it is necessary to ensure the unity of the structure, so every 4 rows up, you need to connect a brick and a wooden wall using metal ties. One end is clogged in a tree, the second is hidden in the masonry. This will make it possible to tie the structure together; lining the house with a brick will not violate its integrity.
- Another important point: it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps at the level of the lower rows and at the very top of the masonry. A few centimeters in size will provide natural air exchange and will keep the insulation intact for a long time.
In fact, this creates insulation and cladding as a ventilated facade. The building acquires additional multi-layer protection, so it can last much longer.
The insulation material in the presence of ventilation will not suffer from vapors, condensation will not form in it. Log walls will breathe freely, so the building will always have a comfortable atmosphere.
When creating masonry, you need to use only one type of arrangement of bricks, otherwise the building will look ugly. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the horizontal position of each row and the strictly vertical arrangement of the walls. For this, the level and plumb are applied, the detected deviations should be immediately corrected.
Knowing how to brick a house, you can significantly increase its durability and aesthetic appeal. However, the creation of masonry has many subtleties that require proven practical skills in working with bricks and mortar. If you doubt your skills, it is better to entrust the facing to a professional.
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The exterior of the house is his calling card. Without a beautiful modern and high-quality exterior finish, the house will look like a dull unfinished building. The longevity of your home will directly depend on the quality of the material and the work performed.
Today, the market has a huge amount of materials for the exterior decoration of buildings. This is a siding (plastic, metal), tile for facades, all kinds of wall panels, plaster, but facing brick remains the most popular.
Modern brick has a wide range of colors and a large number of textures, which gives the building an exceptional unique design.
There are several technologies for the production of facing bricks and, based on this, has its own name and different characteristics. There is ceramic, hyper-pressed, clinker, silicate. Let's try to understand the features of each type of brick available on our market and try to decide for ourselves which one is suitable for us.
Material selection
Ceramic brick
Ceramic brick is made of clay, relatively inexpensive. It has both cons and pros. By cons include the high hygroscopicity of 6-14%, which depends on the type of clay used for the production. If water gets into the pores and then freezes, the brick may begin to crumble. To reduce this factor after facing the walls, the brick is covered with a special hydrophobic composition. Ceramic brick is quite fragile and can begin to collapse already during transportation. Frost resistance is from 25 to 50 cycles.
The advantages include: a wide variety of colors, sizes and shapes, relatively inexpensive price, environmental friendliness of the material, good thermal conductivity, good sound insulation.
Hyper pressed brick
Hyper-pressed brick is obtained by pressing a lime-cement mixture, followed by drying in a warm room. Adding coloring pigments allows you to get a greater color gamut. In fact, it is an artificial stone in the shape of a brick. It has the texture and characteristics of natural stone. It is superior in strength characteristics to silicate and ceramic bricks. Frost resistance is from 30 to 300 cycles.
Minuses. Mass production in our country has not yet been developed, and as a result, an expensive price. An uneven surface (under a stone) will allow water to flow into the pores and destroy the material. After facing the walls, as in the case of ceramic bricks, they must be treated with hydrophobic impregnation.
Before buying a hyper-pressed brick, you should pay attention to the date of its production. Such a brick can be used after 15-20 days from the moment of its production. During this time, it gains 80% of strength and will not break during transportation.
Silicate brick
For the production of silicate brick, quartz sand is used. The cheapest brick is most often used for the construction of main walls, and not for facade decoration. It has a short service life of 15-50 cycles. Quite heavy (3 kg), therefore, for a wall of such a brick, a more powerful foundation is required.
Heating costs will also be greater than those of competitors, since silicate brick has high thermal conductivity (from 0.38 to 07 W / m ° C). In the warm southern regions of our country, you can overlay a house with such a brick, but like the ceramic and hyper-pressed brick described above, after facing the walls, it is necessary to treat them with a hydrophobic type impregnation.
Brick brick
Clinker brick, as well as ceramic, is made from a special type of clay, but the difference in firing technology gives it higher strength and a wide variety of colors. Clinker brick has frost resistance from 100 to 150 cycles, which speaks about its durability. Such a brick is not at all cheap.
When choosing a brick for cladding, it is worth paying attention to one more fact - the presence and shape of the holes. A solid brick weighs more, requires a more powerful foundation and costs more than a hollow one. A brick with small voids will take much less masonry mortar, and the strength of the masonry will be higher than that of a brick with large holes.
When starting to build a house, it is necessary to foresee and fill the foundation with a sufficient width in order to further eliminate all the difficulties and additional costs of its completion.
General points
To get a smooth and beautiful wall, brickwork with your own hands must be done on a tightly stretched horizontal cord, and to observe vertical joints, use a plumb line. The masonry starts from the uppermost level of the base and with the help of the solution level the horizontal level. To obtain the same seams, metal rods are used. The rod is laid on the edge of the previous row, and then the solution is already laid. Using a trowel, the mortar is leveled and a brick is placed on it. After laying the brick, the rod (template) is removed from the seam and cleaned of the mortar.
As a mortar for masonry, it is best to use ready-made masonry mixtures.
How to impose a wooden house
The most difficult object for bricking with your own hands is a wooden house. The thing is that it is necessary to provide a ventilated air gap (at least 50 mm) between the brick and the wooden wall of the house. To ensure air circulation between the wall of the masonry, ventilation ducts are left in the first row, and outlet openings under the roof above.
The required number of vents is determined based on the calculation of 75 cm per 20 m2 of wall. The lower vents are closed by ventilation grilles from the penetration of rodents. Before you start laying brick, wooden walls must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If you want to insulate a wooden house, mineral wool is best suited as insulation. It is impossible to insulate a wooden house with polystyrene, since it is vapor-proof and the tree under it will deteriorate.
Worth remembering! Bricking a wooden house is possible only after its complete shrinkage.
The wall of the facing brick is necessarily tied to the main wall of the house with flexible connections. To do this, at an angle of 45 °, nails 120 mm long are driven into the upper part of the timber (logs) at a distance of 50 cm from each other. A piece of knitting wire is attached to them in the middle. The nail clogs to the end or bends, forming a hook. The wire stretches from the nail to the middle of the brick and spreads to the sides by 15-25 cm. The dressings are “scattered” evenly over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall.
How to impose a foam block house
A ventilated gap is also necessary between the wall of the facing brick and the wall of foam concrete, since the vapor permeability of aerated concrete is higher than that of a brick. When laying brick close to the wall of aerated concrete, condensation will form between the materials, and as a result, when it freezes, the destruction of the material.
A bricked foam block house is laid in the same way as a wooden house. To connect the two walls, screw nails or galvanized perforated metal strips are used. The number of bonds must be at least 3 pieces per 1 m2.
The brick cladding of the house with your own hands will breathe new life into the old building, and give the new a unique wonderful look.
Video. Clinker brick laying.